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The Fragrance Foundation’s Creatives features John Varvatos and Givaudan’s Rodrigo Flores-Roux

Christine Schott Ledes — Sun, 03 Mar 2019 04:33:38 +0000

The Fragrance Foundation’s Creatives featured John Varvatos and Givaudan’s Rodrigo Flores-Roux, on a panel moderated by Fragrance Foundation Hall of Famer Ann Gottlieb on Wednesday, February 27th at Carngie Hall.

Givaudan’s Emily Bond and Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux Photo by Casey Kelbaugh

Fragrance Foundation President Linda G. Levy noted in her introduction, the performing arts venue was a perfect match for the “three rockstars,” who spoke in this “magical place celebrating creativity.” `

Varvatos noted he likes to shake things up. “When we think about fragrance, we think about memories,” he said. “But we also want to have an edge.” He found his perfect fragrance partner in Flores-Roux, with whom he has created 15 scents, including John Varvatos Artisan Pure, which won a Fragrance Foundation award for Packaging of the Year in 2018. The two originally met when Varvatos was thinking about creating his first fragrance. He spoke about how he had interviewed a variety of perfumers during the process, all of whom came and showed him slides of pie charts. Then he was introduced to Flores-Roux. “He didn’t have a pie chart!” he exclaimed. “Rodrigo was passionate about fragrance.” According to Varvatos, that was all it took to seal the deal. “We don’t like rules; we try to push the wall out on rules,” he says. “That’s been our success.”

Gottlieb called the duo “disrupters” pointing out that neither is known as an introvert. “When we started out, Varvatos said incense and patchouli give him bad vibes,” Flores-Roux says. “I thought, we’ll get there.” Varvatos admitted he wasn’t much of a fragrance wearer before making his own, but that once he committed to the project, he dove in deep. “I wasn’t looking to just stick my name on something,” he said. “I wanted to become knowledgeable.” According to Flores-Roux, “John has a very good nose.” In addition to his own instincts about whether they’ve created a winning fragrance, Varvatos also relies on customer feedback, not market projections. “When you look at the numbers, that’s only part of it,” he says. “The other part is being a good listener and finding out what the client thinks.”

And, it’s not just about the juice. Both agreed that the bottle and packaging is an important part of Flores-Roux’s process as well, and results in a cohesive end product. “You can’t have one story here and another over there,” Varvatos said. When it comes to the external elements, Varvatos is just as hands-on as he is with the scent creation, itself. He recounted the story behind the iconic rattan wrap of the Artisan flask. That came about after Varvatos cut up a woven placemat he had at home and fashioned a mock-up of how he thought the bottle could look. His fragrance partner at the time said it couldn’t be produced. And he said, “Let’s figure out a way that it can be done,” which eventually they did.

Out of fifteen scents they have created together, each has his favorite. For Flores-Roux, it’s the woody, smoky John Varvatos Dark Rebel, which he says was “the most difficult one to make.” Varvatos gravitates to the very first fragrance they made. “I love the juice and what it represents,” he says. “And I continue to discover things about it as I wear it over time, the same way people learn about the hidden treasures in our clothing.”

It’s been fifteen years since that debut scent launched and through it all, Varvatos has kept his sense of optimism and his can-do attitude. Even when faced with those who say his vision can’t be executed, Varvatos remains true to a guiding philosophy that has served him well: “Let’s find the path to make it happen.”

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Fragrance Foundation Creatives panel features founders of Atelier Cologne

Christine Schott Ledes — Sun, 28 Oct 2018 21:04:46 +0000

The Fragrance Foundation hosted its Creatives panel on Tuesday, October 23rd, at the Morgan Library in New York City featuring Atelier Cologne founders and creators Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel who were joined by Robertet Perfumer Jerome Epinette.The conversation will be moderated by Ann Gottlieb, fragrance developer and 2018 Fragrance Foundation Awards Hall of Fame Honoree, known for her masterful work across many fragrance categories. The Creatives panels are designed as an exclusive behind-the-scenes exploration of the collaborative process between leading industry creatives.

Ann Gottlieb and Fragrance Foundation President Linda Levy with Atelier Cologne’s Sylvie Ganter & Christophe Cervasel

“We are thrilled to present this panel of talented creatives who embody the artistry and passion that fuels the fragrance world,” said Linda G. Levy, president of The Fragrance Foundation.

Robertet is excited and honored to host this evening’s event,” said Christophe Maubert, Director, Fragrance Division, Robertet. “Atelier Cologne is the perfect representation of quality and creativity…two values that are at the core of what Robertet stands for.”

Robertet’s Christophe Maubert and Perfumer Jerome Epinette with Fragrance Foundation President Linda Levy

Ganter and Cervasel are credited with creating a new olfactive family, Cologne Absolue, a pure perfume inspired by the legendary Eau de Cologne. They are also known as story tellers, capturing “treasured memories” in a bottle with each of their creations. Ganter, Cervasel and Epinette have collaborated on many Atelier Cologne fragrances.

“Choosing Robertet was an obvious choice. We wanted to work with family houses where the know-how was about naturals,” said Sylvie Ganter, Co-founder of Atelier Cologne.

“Coming from Robertet, I have access to those beautiful natural ingredients and sometimes I can start the creation based on one ingredient,” said Jerome Epinette, Robertet Chief Perfumer. Speaking of his collaboration with Sylvie and Christophe, he continued, “what I like is that it’s like a two-way street.”

L’Oreal’s Xavier Vey and Alexandre Choueiri with Atelier Cologne’s Sylvie Ganter & Christophe Cervasel

Launched in 2009, Atelier Cologne is sold in more than 30 countries and has 18 free standing stores from Paris to New York including San Francisco and Hong Kong. Atelier Cologne extended its presence in the US with the grand opening of a flagship boutique at 950 Madison Avenue, on October 26th, with a festive ribbon-cutting by Ganter and Cervasel with L’Oreal’s Xavier Vey and Alexandre Choueiri.

“Our intention was never to create a natural brand. We wanted to create a genuine brand, an authentic brand but they’ve showed us sides or facets of our brand that we didn’t even express,” said Sylvie Ganter, Co-founder of Atelier Cologne of working with L’Oréal.

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The 2018 Fragrance Foundation Awards honors Frédéric Malle with Game Changer Award

Christine Schott Ledes — Wed, 13 Jun 2018 15:54:29 +0000

The 2018 winners of The Fragrance Foundation Awards were announced at a black tie dinner at Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully Hall in New York City. The star-studded event, hosted by award-winning actress Jane Krakowski, honored Game Changer Frédéric Malle, Fragrance Industry Icon Ann Gottlieb, and Master Perfumer Olivier Cresp, among others. Estée Lauder Chairman Emeritus Leonard Lauder – who recently celebrated his 60th anniversary in the business, presented the award to Frédéric Malle.

“Tonight’s winners, finalists and honorees represent the very best of the fragrance industry,” said Linda G. Levy, president of The Fragrance Foundation. “They bring to life the artistry and passion that makes fragrance so transformative and inspiring.”

In total, nineteen winning fragrances were announced, showcasing the richness and diversity of today’s fragrance industry. Winners represented the best in women’s, men’s, home and bath & body fragrance.

Firmenich Chairman Patrick Firmenich presented the Hall of Fame Award to Ann Gottlieb, celebrated perfume strategist and founder of her eponymous consultancy. “To receive this award recognizing my contributions to the world of fragrance is a validation of my work and is absolutely thrilling,” said Ms. Gottlieb. “I’m truly honored and poised to continue for the next 50 years!”

Firmenich Master Perfumer Olivier Cresp was awarded the Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award. “To start from scratch and have maybe the highest award that one can receive is really incredible,” said Mr. Cresp. “It’s something I never expected and I’m very honored.”

Frédéric Malle, known for his groundbreaking Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, received the Foundation’s Game Changer Award. “This recognition is like an Oscar for your career, so it’s humbling,” said Mr. Malle. “Since my mother and her father both worked in the industry, this award is very moving for me. It’s like an accolade from someone very close to me recognizing that I maybe contributed something, too.”

Other awards presenters and attendees included, models Naomi Campbell, Rita Ora, Chanel Iman, Hari Nef and, stylist Olivia Palermo, actors Ben McKenzie and Rick Gonzalez, designers John Varvatos and Jason Wu, dancer Derek Hough, Hearst Chief Content Officer Joanna Coles, ELLE Magazine Editor in Chief Nina Garcia, founder and CEO of Glossier Emily Weiss, founder of Huda Beauty Mona Kattan, John Demsey, Edgar Huber, Alex Chouieri, Michelle Mane, Michael Clinton, Christine & George Ledes and more.

THE FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION 2018 AWARD WINNERS

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR:

WOMEN’S LUXURY

TOM FORD FABULOUS – Tom Ford Beauty; Givaudan’s Shyamala Maisondieu

WOMEN’S PRESTIGE

GUCCI BLOOM – Coty, Inc.; Firmenich’s Alberto Morillas

MEN’S LUXURY

TOM FORD OUD MINÉRALE – Tom Ford Beauty; Givaudan’s Shyamala Maisondieu

MEN’S PRESTIGE

Y BY YSL – YSL Beauté; IFF’s Dominique Ropion

POPULAR

GLOSSIER YOU – Glossier Inc; Firmenich’s Frank Voelkl & Dora Baghriche

PERFUME EXTRAORDINAIRE OF THE YEAR

ATELIER Cologne Café Tuberosa; Robertet’s Jerome Epinette with Sylvie Ganter

BREAKOUT STAR

MAISON MARGIELA REPLICA BEACH WALK – Maison Margiela Fragrances; Firmenich’s Jacques Cavallier Belletrud & Marie Salamagne

INDIE FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR

MAISON TRUDON PARFUM IN BRUMA; Takasago’s Antoine Lie

PACKAGING OF THE YEAR:
WOMEN’S

CAROLINA HERRERA GOOD GIRL – PUIG; Package & Bottle Design by Carolina Herrera de Baez

MEN’S
JOHN VARVATOS ARTISAN PURE – Revlon; Package & Bottle Design by John Varvatos and Paul McLaughlin

MEDIA CAMPAIGN OF THE YEAR:

WOMEN’S
GUCCI BLOOM – Coty, Inc.

MEN’S

ETERNITY CALVIN KLEIN – Coty, Inc.

HOME COLLECTION OF THE YEAR

DIPTYQUE 34 BOULEVARD SAINT GERMAIN – diptyque Paris; Givaudan’s Olivier Pescheux

BATH & BODY COLLECTION OF THE YEAR

AROMATHERAPY COLLECTION FROM BATH & BODY WORKS – Bath & Body Works; Givaudan’s Michael Carby, Johm Gamba, Adriana Medina and Firmenich’s Harry Fremont

HOME HOLIDAY/ SEASONAL FRAGRANCE PRODUCT OF THE YEAR

DIPTYQUE LES CONSTELLATIONS – diptyque Paris; Givaudan’s Olivier Pescheux

CONSUMER CHOICE:
WOMEN’S
AT THE BEACH – Bath & Body Works; IFF’s Jerry Calazzo and Jean-Marc Chaillan

IFF’s Jerry Carazzo & Jean-Marc Challon

MEN’S
COACH FOR MEN – Interparfums Luxury Brands, IFF’s Anne Flipo & Bruno Jovanovic

HALL OF FAME
CUCUMBER MELON- Bath & Body Works; Givaudan’s Kari Arienti

CONSUMER CHOICE VLOG
5 REASONS TO WEAR FRAGRANCES – Jeremy Fragrance for “Five Reasons to Wear Fragrance”

Event Sponsors included: COTY, FIRMENICH, GIVAUDAN, HEARST and IFF

For more information on The Fragrance Foundation Awards, please visit: www.fragrance.org

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