PERFUMER

Earthy & Woody

NOTES
Sea Salt, Bergamot, Birch Leaf, Silver Vetiver and Pine Resin

LONGEVITY

8-10 hours on skin

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Brazilian Actress Giovanna Lancellotti

Developed based on consumer behavior together with the sensibilities of the perfumers, these fragrances bring together unusual and surprising combinations

The First AI Fragrances: Egeo ON You and Me by O Boticario in collaboration with Symrise and IBM Research

The long-awaited time by the beauty world has finally arrived. O Boticario has announced the launch of the first fragrances in the world developed with the aid of Artificial Intelligence. Their names are Egeo ON You and Me.

For this creation, the brand joined its alchemy with new and advanced machine learning algorithms from IBM Research, in partnership with Symrise – the leading edge fragrance house in the world. The novelties were thought of for the millennials, who like to take chances and are not afraid of making errors, always living new experiences, and who like to be free to make their choices.

The two Egeo ON versions understand that being young is to try new worlds all the time. These fragrances were developed using an AI system that sifted through hundreds of thousands of formulas and thousands of raw materials, helping identify patterns and novel combinations. Armed with knowledge about ingredients that make products smell fruity, sweet, spicy and more, we created two unique fragrances that spark intense sensations.

Along with such an emblematic release, O Boticário also created the You Shower Gel 3 em 1 and Barba and Egeo ON Me Creme Hidratante Corporal Manteiga, all with the same olfactory profile. “We created a perfect alchemy, between man and machine, that was translated/expressed into perfumery. What looked like a completely improbable combination, resulted in fragrances that surprised even our team. And that we decided to bring into a complete line of products for people who want to enjoy life to the best, so we chose to expand the Egeo family which is known for bringing smell combinations and for being a youthful brand, said Aline Mori, Perfumery Manager at O Boticario.

Influencers Giovanna Lancellotti, Pedro Andrade, Rezende, and Nega Braba

For this special launch, O Boticario enlisted the help of influencers including Brazilian Actress Giovanna Lancellotti (featured above) with 8.1 million Instagram followers and…

TV Host/Journalist/Travel Influencer Pedro Andrade @pedroandradetv with 482K followers on Instagram,

YouTuber @Rezende with 24 million followers and 5.2 million followers on Instagram,

And, Singer/Artist Nega Braba @Lellê with 1 million followers on Instagram.

The products launched at retail on May 27 in all stores, resellers and e-commerce (www.oboticario.com.br) in all of Brazil. in time for “Valentine’s Day” there.

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Symrise Sr VP-Global Fine Fragrance Ricardo Omori and VP-Fine Fragrance Julianne Pruett, along with Mathieu Chévara and Dominique Brunel of Nez, welcomed guests to the event including Ann Gottlieb, Coty’s Lori Singer, Estée Lauder’s Trudi Loren and Stephane de la Faverie, Elizabeth Arden’s Mikaela Eckerborn, Pam Vaile, Hampton Beauty’s Lori Mariano, Victoria Secret Beauty’s Mark Knitkowski, FIT’s Virginia Bonofiglio, Fragrance Foundation’s Linda Levy and many others…who were encouraged to smell fragrances created by such perfumers including David Apel, Nathalie Benareau, Patricia Bilodeau and Christelle Laprade inspired by art.

Symrise’s A World Tour Through Scent brings together 11 countries, 13 perfumers, 12 fragrances, 11 photographers from Tendance Floue into 1 book.

Achim Daub, Global President Symrise Scent & Care stated, “At Symrise, our approach to fragrance is “better living through scent.” Out passion is to combine the sensorial with the beneficial. We strive to challenge boundaries and to understand the intrinsic connections we, as human beings have with fragrance and each other, across cultures, across regions, we see ourselves as ambassadors of real, olfactive journeys with an eclectic and iconic legacy that spans more than 220 years. We believe in inspiration through collaboration and brought photography and journalism into this project in order to illuminate the art of scent through these other media. The unexpected fragrances, visuals and words created during this “World Tour Through Scent” are the direct reflection of the participants’ experiences and show a vibrant part of all our lives through a truly unique and authentic lends. They are sometimes provocative, frequently artistis, but always a mirror of our collective human experience.”

The Carpenters Workshop Gallery produces and exhibits functional sculptures by international rising and already established artists and designers going outside their traditional territories of expression. The gallery is actively involved in the research and production of the limited edition works exhibited. The choices are guided by the research of an emotional, artistic and historical relevance that appears as an evidence. The gallery relies on the partnership of friends Julien Lombrail & Loic Le Gaillard who first opened a space in London’s Chelsea in 2006 in a former carpenter’s workshop; which was followed with a second space in Mayfair in 2008. They then returned to their roots by opening a 600-square meter space in Paris in 2011 in the heart of Le Marais district, an address steeped in history as it was previously occupied by the Galerie de France for several decades. In 2015, Carpenters Workshop Gallery | New York was opened. This new space confirms today the leadership and dominant position of the gallery in the international territory of art and design. In 2015 the gallery opened Carpenters Workshop | Roissy, a 8,000 m2 workshop for their artists. The gallery became the first to integrate a production facility dedicated to artistic research and development of collectible design and bringing together an elite team of artisans. In 2018 Carpenters Workshop Gallery announced the opening of it’s fourth gallery in San Francisco. Carpenters Workshop Gallery will take up residence in a nearly 9,000-square-foot space on the mezzanine of the Saint Joseph’s Arts Society, a new arts space housed in the former Saint Joseph’s Church, which has been immaculately resurrected by the owner, design impresario Ken Fulk.

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O Boticario’s Heloisa Souza, Symrise’s Achim Daub, IBM’s Principal Research Scientist Richard T. Goodwin, and Symrise Perfumer David Apel

Internally called Philyra, this solution has been built for Symrise using IBM Research’s AI for Product Composition technology and used to create two new fragrances for their client O Boticario which will launch in 2019.

“The art and science of designing a winning perfume has been something we at Symrise have been doing passionately for more than 200 years. Now, our perfumers can work with an AI apprentice by their side that can analyze thousands of formulas and historical data to identify patterns and predict novel combinations, helping to push the boundaries in perfumery, and accelerate the design process by guiding them toward formulas that have never been seen before,” stated Achim Daub, President of Symrise Scent & Care.

“This effort brings together human expertise and sensibility with machine intelligence to create novel, fine fragrances. Philyra’s understanding of consumer preferences and knowledge of formulas and ingredients, led to new fragrance combinations which allowed our perfumers to accelerate the creative design process and focus on perfecting the final perfumes — the alchemy that helps us address our consumers’ needs in a unique way,” said Alexandre Bouza, Marketing Director, O Boticario. “Advances in AI are helping us introduce unique, new fragrances to our customers. We are very excited to be part of this collaboration with Symrise and IBM Research.”

O Boticario’s Tiago Martinello, and George Ledes

Operating in a market that is estimated to be approximately $17.4 billion in size by 2024, Symrise’s Scent & Care Division creates and sells fragrances and aroma molecules used in fine fragrances, personal care and beauty products, as well as home care
products such as for cleaning, hair care and detergents.

In the world of fragrance design, fragrances are traditionally created by perfumers who train for many years before they become proficient at their craft in developing a winning fragrance that is consumer preferred, triggers the desired emotional response, and is considered unique and innovative.

As part of a multi-year-long effort, Symrise and IBM Research formed a collaboration to explore the application of AI to help create new and innovative, highly rated fragrances.

Leading Fragrance Influencer @JeremyFragrance

The roots of IBM’s research build on earlier computational creativity work used in the culinary domain, which was theory-driven and used flavor pairing models and psychological models of olfactory pleasantness to identify recipes that would taste and smell good. But, as opposed to a food recipe where amounts of ingredients can be vague or approximate, creating a fine fragrance is a science that requires precision as even the smallest percentage change in the amount of a material can make or break a new perfume. As a result, IBM took a data-driven approach, relying on information about hundreds of thousands of fragrance formulas, data on the fragrance families (e.g. fruity, oriental and floral), data on a fragrance’s raw materials and historical data that captured the success of previously designed perfumes and formulas, among other data points.

Using this mix of data, “Philyra” uses machine learning technologies to generate new combinations of fragrance formulations that fit the design objectives. For example: creating a unique perfume for Brazilian male millennials.

The components of the system specifically include algorithms that learn and predict:

• alternative raw material complements and substitutes that could be used in a formula
• the appropriate dosing for a raw material based on usage patterns
• the human response
• the novelty of the fragrance by comparing it to a large set of commercially available fragrances

When it comes to new fragrance formulation, novelty is a major driver, and the AI system learns a distance model to identify fragrances that are close in smell to existing fragrances. The larger the distance between a fragrance and its neighbors, the more novel the perfume is predicted to be since it occupies a white space in fragrance.

In responding to a brief from O Boticario, Symrise used the IBM Research system to design two new perfumes that will be rolled out next year. As part of the development process, the initial formulas suggested by the system were minimally tweaked by Symrise Perfumer David Apel to emphasize a certain fragrance note, and improve how long it lasts on the skin.

“Perfumery is an ancient art. It moves slowly through history and can seem unchanged for centuries. But there are moments of historic significance that are undeniable. The last great explosion of innovation began in the late 19th century with the introduction of synthetic fragrance raw materials into the perfumer’s pallet. That revolution is still the driving force behind most of the great perfumes of today. Artificial Intelligence is quite simply the next frontier of perfumery innovation and discovery. Watching it unfold, and helping to direct it, is a privilege and the most significant milestone in my career,” stated Apel.

Symrise plans to introduce “Philyra” to their perfumers around the globe.  

For more information on Symrise, visit: www.symrise.com

For more information on IBM Research, visit: http://www.research.ibm.com/

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The perfumers discussed their work on Symrise’s Olfactive Travel Portfolio, a project that brought photogra­phers, journalists and perfumers together to explore the world of scent and share the creative story. Mathieu Chévara, art director and co-publisher of Nez, moderated the discussion.

“Symrise sent 13 perfumers of different nationalities to visit the 11 countries which are home to its creative centres, in order to capture the unique scents and influences of these key areas of the world. From Oaxaca and the Amazon to Holzminden, Shanghai to Singapore, Seville to Paris, Madurai to Dubai, Durham to Tokyo, these Symrise perfumers were joined by journalists from Nez, the Olfactory Magazine and photographers from the collective Tendance Floue to engage with the aromas of the world – a voyage of discovery, part creative odyssey and part anthropological expedition,” stated Chévara, also designer and artistic director of A World Tour Through Scent.

The book was officially launched at Symrise’s Voyage a la Plage party at the Ruhl Plage in Nice on Tuesday night attended by Symrise CEO Dr. Heinz-Jeurgen Bertram; Global President, Scent & Care, Achim Daub; Symrise perfumers including Emilie Copperman, David Apel, Maurice Roucel, Carlos Vinals, Alienore Massenet and Pierre Gueros; Mathieu Chevara of Nez; Michel LaPointe of IBM; Cynthia & Eric Forman co-founders of Phlur; Rick Ochs of Estée Lauder; Diane Crecca of Arcade Beauty; Daniel Gonzaga of Natura; Philippe Ughetto, President of the French Fragrance Foundation; Vincent Kuczinski, President of the American Society of Perfumers; Journalist Sarah Colton, Artist/Perfumer Sarah Baker; Alessandro Gualtieri of Nasomatto Pardon; Bertrand Puissegur-Ripet of the Nice Convention Bureau Congress; and Jeb Allured and Paige Crist, organizers of the World Perfumery Congress.

“At Symrise, our approach to fragrance is “better living through scent. Our passion is to combine the sensorial with the beneficial. We strive to challenge boundaries and to understand the intrinsic connections we, as human beings, have with fragrance and watch other – across cultures, across regions, we see ourselves as ambassadors of real olfactive journeys, with an eclectic and iconic legacy that spans more than 220 years.  We believe in inspiration through collaboration, and brought photography and journalism into this project in order to illuminate the art of scent through these other media. The unexpected fragrances, visuals and words created during A World Tour Through Scent are a direct reflection of the participants’ experience and show a vibrant part of all our lives through a truly unique and authentic lens. they are sometimes provocative, frequently artistic, but always a mirror of our collective human experience,” stated Daub.

For more on A World Tour Through Scent, follow @SymriseAG

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On April 26th, A.N. Other hosted a “Reveal Day” Reception featuring Award-winning Perfumer David Apel of Symrise at Perfumarie NYC.

Guests included: Perfumarie Co-Founders Rhona Stokols and Mindy Yang, Men’s Grooming Blogger Troy Alexander, A.N. Other Co-Founder Gilad Amozeg, Symrise’s David Apel, and Christine & George Ledes.

“We are very excited to host a reception with David at Perfumarie,” stated A.N. Other Co-founder, Gilad Amozeg.

With nearly four decades of perfumery under his belt, David Apel is one of the most recognizable stars in the industry. As an American, he was an outsider and that gave him a sense of freedom and the drive to express himself breaking the tradition of the classic French perfumer. This made David a natural choice for A.N.Other’s innovative concept “I got into the business completely by accident,” Apel recalls. “I was taking night classes in Environmental Chemistry when I took an entry level job at a fragrance company to help pay my way through, and fell in love!”

David Apel, George Ledes and Gilad Amozeg

A.N. Other has redefined how luxury fragrances are created and sold. They invest without limits in the ingredients that go into the bottle and onto one’s skin. Their fragrances are crafted from the finest eco-sustainable ingredients and ethically sourced raw materials. They are free from dyes, preservatives, animal products and toxins. They believe, less is more. A.N. Other’s minimalistic collection is stripped of name, mood, gender, designer labels and, most interestingly, inflated price tags.

For the first time, Apel was given a blank canvas and the opportunity to create a fragrance without budgetary limits. No briefs. No budgets. No consumer trends to follow.

Apel’s fragrance OR/18 aka “Cannabis Cupcake” is a dreamy blend of the exotic and the familiar, this exceptional perfume with a driftwood base uses a rare cannabis accord to accentuate mystical incense notes. Sweet citrus, coffee aromas and edible notes of chocolate and bakery come alive on the skin as the perfume dries.

50 ml of OR/18 is available for $60 at Perfumarie and online at: https://an-other.com/shop/or18/

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